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From the desk · October 20, 2026

Rolex Datejust 26 Two-Tone Ref. 69173 — Black Tapestry Dial

A 1992 steel-and-yellow-gold Datejust 26 with the desirable Quick Set movement, black tapestry dial, and fluted bezel on a Jubilee bracelet.

Rolex Datejust 26 Two-Tone Ref. 69173 — Black Tapestry Dial

Rolex Datejust 26 Reference 69173

The ref. 69173 is the ladies' 26mm Datejust built on the Oyster case in steel and 18k yellow gold — two-tone in Rolex's own terminology — and introduced the Quick Set date adjustment that collectors now treat as a baseline usability upgrade. This example dates to 1992 and presents in used condition without box or papers, which is entirely standard for a piece of this age and is already reflected in how it is priced.

Dial, Bezel, and Bracelet

The black tapestry dial is a period-correct choice that ages well: the engine-turned pattern gives depth without the fussiness of a diamond-set variant, and stick indexes keep the reading clean. The fluted bezel is solid 18k yellow gold — not plated, not capped — which is one of the reasons two-tone Rolex hardware holds up across decades. The Jubilee bracelet, five-link and center-polished, is the factory pairing for this reference and suits the dressier register of the dial.

Movement

Inside sits the cal. 2135, a 17-jewel automatic with Quick Set date. The Quick Set distinction matters on a Datejust: without it, advancing the date requires cycling the hands through midnight repeatedly. The 2135 addressed that entirely, and its presence here makes the watch practical for daily wear, not just occasional use.

What a Buyer Should Know

At 26mm this is a ladies' or smaller-wrist piece by modern sizing conventions, though plenty of collectors wear it as a dress watch regardless. Two-tone ref. 69173 examples in honest used condition with the black tapestry dial are not abundant; plain white or silver dials are far more common in the market. The absence of box and papers is the norm rather than the exception at this age, and authentication rests on physical inspection of the case, dial printing, and bracelet rather than paperwork. At $5,459 this sits in line with current secondary-market pricing for a clean, running 69173 with an original-configuration dial. The piece is offered as-is in used condition, and prospective buyers should confirm bracelet stretch and service history with us directly before purchasing.

The ref. 69173 was produced from 1989 through the early 2000s, making 1992 examples mid-run pieces that have had time to stabilize in the collector market.

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