A caving and exploration instrument with a fixed 24-hour bezel and a temperament that suits daily wear.
Rolex introduced the Explorer II in 1971 as a companion to the original Explorer, but it was built for a different problem. Cavers, speleologists, and anyone working underground or in polar conditions lose track of day and night. The Explorer II answered that with a fixed 24-hour bezel and an additional hand that completed one rotation every 24 hours, letting the wearer distinguish noon from midnight at a glance. The first reference, the 1655, ran from 1971 to roughly 1985 and carried the orange straight-arrow 24-hour hand that collectors now chase. It never sold in the volumes of the Submariner or GMT-Master, which is part of why it remained a connoisseur's pick for decades.
The 1655 gave way to the 16550 in 1985, which brought the white dial option, sapphire crystal, and a quickset date. That generation was short-lived and is known for dials that aged to cream tones. In 1989 the 16570 arrived and stayed in production until around 2011, an unusually long run that makes it the most available vintage-modern Explorer II on the market. It offered both black and white dials in a 40mm Oyster case. We currently have several, including a 1999 black-dial 16570 on the Oyster bracelet and a 2003 example fitted with an aftermarket 24-hour PVD bezel, a reminder that customization exists in this market and should be priced accordingly against a standard steel-bezel piece.
In 2011 Rolex marked the model's 40th anniversary with the 216570, growing the case to 42mm and reviving the orange 24-hour hand as a nod to the 1655. The current 226570, launched in 2021, refined the proportions and introduced the latest movement while keeping the 42mm footprint. Our 2012 white-dial 216570 on the Oyster bracelet sits right in the sweet spot for buyers who want the larger modern case without paying current-production premiums.
The Explorer II has a visual signature that sets it apart from the rest of the professional line. The 24-hour bezel is fixed, engraved steel rather than rotating, so the watch reads cleaner and flatter than a GMT-Master. Dials are high-contrast with bold applied markers and a date at three. The 40mm 16570 wears closer to the body and suits a wider range of wrists, while the 42mm 216570 and 226570 have more presence and a thicker case profile.
Movements track the references closely. The 16570 used the caliber 3185 and later the 3186, the latter introducing the Parachrom hairspring. The 216570 ran the 3187. The current 226570 carries the 3285, a modern movement with the Chronergy escapement and roughly 70 hours of power reserve. All offer an independently adjustable 24-hour hand or local-hour jumping function depending on generation, which makes the watch genuinely useful for travelers despite its caving origins.
The Oyster bracelet is standard and correct for the model, but the Explorer II takes well to rubber. We stock fitted rubber straps in Arctic White with Mandarin Orange and in Jet Black, both unworn, for owners who want a lighter summer setup or a sportier look without altering the watch itself. A 20mm steel Oyster bracelet is also in inventory for anyone needing a replacement or a spare. These accessories matter because they let a single watch serve multiple roles across a season.
This is the Rolex for the buyer who wants something off the obvious path. The Explorer II carries the same build quality and water resistance as its siblings but trades the dive-watch ubiquity for a tool-watch story most people on the street will not recognize. The white dial, often called the Polar, is the more distinctive choice and photographs beautifully. The black dial reads as a more conventional sport Rolex and tends to be slightly easier to live with under a cuff. Collectors gravitate to the 16570 for its long history and 40mm wearability, while those who prefer modern proportions and the orange hand lean toward the 216570 and 226570.
The 40mm 16570 is comfortable for nearly any wrist and slips under a shirt cuff with ease. The 42mm references wear larger and heavier, with a taller case that some find more substantial and others find demanding on a smaller wrist. Lug-to-lug measurement is the figure to watch if you are between sizes. The fixed bezel and absence of a screw-down crown protrusion keep the silhouette balanced.
Our current Explorer II inventory spans five watches priced from $2,250 to $10,950, which reflects how broad this model's range has become. Earlier 16570 examples and accessories anchor the lower end, while clean 216570 pieces and unworn configurations sit higher. Condition, bracelet originality, box and papers, and whether the bezel and hands are factory all move value. A correct, unpolished 16570 with full documentation will always command more than a modified or service-replaced example, so inspect the details before you commit.
Live inventory for this model — updated continuously as pieces arrive and sell.
